A design mark is a brand or a person's own mark added to emphasize the uniqueness of a precious metal object. A design mark may be a combination of letters, a pattern, or a signature. For example, objects originally devised by designer and academic Tapio Wirkkala (1915-1985) would be marked with his initials TW at the end of the mark series.
A-G Eker
Anna Greta Eker (1928- ) was born in Maarianhamina and is a trained industrial designer. He moved to Norway in the 1950s, married a Norwegian jewellery designer, Erling Christoffersen, and afterwards started to design jewellery and silver objects.
AARIKKA
Kaija Aarikka-Ruohonen (1929-2014), textile designer and distinguished entrepreneur. Studied at the School of Art and Design. Started designing jewellery in the 1950s, initially wooden buttons and jewellery. The mark is on a silver brooch from 1963. The maker's mark is RÅ (= Ralph Åkerfeldt, Helsinki).
AH
Unknown artist. Kultateollisuus Ky produced items in the 1950s and 1960s.
AK
Silversmith Arvi Karanterä (formerly. Kajander) (1902-1985) worked at Westerback in the 1940s-1960s. A skilful silversmith who made products for, among others, Tapio Wirkkala. Karanterä specialised in making Biedermeier coffee sets, which he was allowed to do in his own office. He had his own responsibility mark AEK from 1970-1982..
AUKUSTI PAATOLA
Aukusti Paatola is the artist. Designed by jeweller Kuopion Kultasepät Oy in the 1970s.
BeuteP
Danish goldsmith Ole Bent Petersen (1938 – 1998) designed silver objects for Kultateollisuus Oy in the 1950s. He graduated as a goldsmith in 1957 and continued his studies at the Danish College of Jewellery and the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts. Established his own studio and designed for Georg Jensen. The mark is on a silver ladle from 1958.
BG
Bertel Gardberg (1916-2007), silversmith, designer, and academic. Graduated from the Finnish Goldsmith School in 1941, additionally studying at the School of Art and Design (Helsinki), and in Denmark. He ran his own workshop in Helsinki in 1949, and from 1974 to 2007 in Tammisaari. The photo shows an object produced by Sporrong Oy. Gardberg's personal responsibilty mark is BRG, and BG is his design mark.
BR
Börje Rajalin (b.1933) Silversmith, designer. Studied and worked as a teacher at Taideteollisessa oppilaitos (Art and Design school), designed jewellery and worked for Kalevala Koru's head designer and artistic director. Rajalin designed unique jewellery manufactured by Westerback. Photo: Westerback manufactured jewellery from 1960.
BS
Bror Sundgren, master goldsmith. Designed jewellery for Westerback Oy as their workshop foreman. The mark is on a ring from 1965.
BW
Lapponia Jewellery's responsibility mark (1963-2005), fineness mark, hallmark, Helsinki location mark, year mark 1967, Björn Weckström's design mark. Weckström has worked as a designer at Lapponia since 1963.
ED
Bastion design 1999-2002.
E. GRANIT & Co
Goldsmith Erik Granit set up a business in Helsinki in 1954, producing hundreds of designs. Most of them were his own, but the business also used outside designers. The firm was wound up following the death of Erik Granit in 1988.
EH
Eva Hidström (1930-2022), enamel artist. The EH initial-engraving was used in Hopeakeskus in Hämeenlinna for enamelled objects between 1968 and 1971. Hidström heralds from an established family of Salo goldsmiths. She studied at the Ateneum in Helsinki, and in Switzerland. In addition to her own studio, she has worked for Tillander, Hopeakeskus, and in Germany. She has also taught at the Finnish Goldsmith School.
E LUKALA
Esa Lukala (b. 1945), pictorial artist. Studied at the Institute of Industrial Arts. Designed for the textile industry. The mark is on a ring made by Kutateollisuus Ky.
EowE
Eric O.W. Ehrström (1881 – 1934), artist–cum-artisan. Studied at the drawing school of the Finnish Art Society and as a pupil of Akseli Gallen-Kallela. Teacher of metal repoussage at the Central School of Applied Arts and author of the book "Taidekäsityö" (Arts and Crafts). Skilled in repoussage and enamelling work. Designed jewellery, artwork and the crown of the King of Finland. The marks are on a cigar box made by Viri Oy in 1934, with Ehrström's repoussé decoration on the lid.
ER
Eero Rislakki (b. 1924), industrial designer. Studied at the Free Art School and the Central School of Industrial Arts. One of the first users of Finnish gemstones. Designed jewellery for Kalevala Koru and Westerback as well as silver objects for Kultakeskus. The mark is on a ring made by Westerback in 1959, and the engraved initials are on a Kultakeskus silver object from 1965.
ERÄLAMPI
Unto Erälampi (1919-1974), silversmith. Graduated as a silversmiths from Invalidien ammattioppilaitoksesta (vocational college for people with physical disabilities) in the 1940s. He had a company with his silversmith sister, Salme Sarlamo (née Erälampi), who mainly made repoussé works.
Finn Feelings
The common design mark for all Finnfeelings Oy jewellery designed by various goldsmiths and artists, such as Risto Immonen, Bernt Högkvist, Gerold Gerdes, Le Xuan Binh and Yvonne Konschelle.
HELENA TYNELL (1918-2016)
Helena Tynell (b. 1918), glass designer. Studied at the Central School of Industrial Arts. Designer at the Riihimäki glass works 1946 – 1976, designed ceramics for Arabia and glass objects in Germany. Mark on a brooch made of glass and silver from 1951, with metal work by goldsmith Railo Säde for Oy Taito Ab. Helena Tynell was married to the manager of Taito, Paavo Tynell. The design mark H. Tynell was also used on her jewellery.
Ilves
KIRSTI ILVESSALO (1920-2019), textile artist. Studied at the Central School of Industrial Arts. Specialised in ryijy rugs. Her designs also include jewellery, enamel work and objects for Kalevala Koru and Tillander.
JALO
Design mark of this model and size since 2002. (They have had a smaller 'normal' JALO responsibility mark in the Tukes register since 2004).
JORMA LAINE
Jorma Laine (1930-2002), designer. Designed jewellery at, for example, Kultateollisuus and Turun Hopea.
JUKKA KORPIHETE
Jukka Korpihete (b.1976) graduated as a designer from Häme University of Applied Sciences. He specialised in designing lamps and lighting. He has also designed silverware for Kultakeskus since 2005
KALEVALA KORU
This round Kalevala Koru Oy design mark has been used since 1941 and is also their responsibility mark since 1980. This mark was already registered in the 1940s as a trademark and was used on all of their metal products (including, for example, bronze). As shown in the photo, Kalevala Koru also used two Ks back-to-back as their responsibility mark during the years 1957-2003.
KALEVALA KORU
In 1937 Kalevala Koru began selling jewellery. Originally they had only 40 designs based upon historic pieces of jewellery, but by 1947 there were more than 300 designs. Over time their historic jewellery designs have been joined by more modern designs. During the period 1937-1941 Kalevala Koru used the design mark of a K inside a square with a serrated base. Since the mark was never registered as an official responsibility mark, it was added at the end of a mark series as a design mark. The photo shows jewellery made by Johan Ferdinand Henriksson in Lahti in 1939, with the Kalevala Koru design mark (1937-1941) at the end.
KAUNIS KORU OY
This mark always appears on the company's jewellery as a design mark at the end of a mark series from 1957-1989 (1993). The mark was only officially registered in 1994. Kalevala Koru Oy acquired Kaunis Koru in 1989, after which the mark was registered in the Name Register from 1994 to 2011. Before 1989, jewellery often displayed the responsibility mark of subcontrated goldsmiths, for example, HK = Heikki Kaksonen Oy, symbol mark HN = Helge Narsakka, OM = Osvald Mättö. MKR was the company's own workshop responsibilty mark.
KB
Kaj Blomqvist (b. 1939) has designed silver objects for Kultakeskus. He is also a well-known glass designer.
KL
Karl Laine (b. 1945), jewellery designer. Designed jewellery for Sten & Laine and objects for Kultakeskus.
LAPPONIA
Lapponia Jewellery's responsibility mark (based on the letters L and J around a crown) has been in use since 1968. Objects are often marked with the full name of the company.
Liisa
Liisa Vitali (1918 – 1987), jewellery artist. Started making jewellery in the 1950s, initially on a small scale at her home. Designs by her have been produced as uniques or in series by Aatos Hauli (AH), Mauri Sarparanta (MSS), Westerback Ky (NW) and Kultakeskus (lion).
MATTI HYVÄRINEN
Matti Hyvärinen (1937-2017), jewellery artist and goldsmith. Awarded several international jewellery design prizes. Designed for Sirokoru.
MH
Mauno Honkanen (b. 1931), designer and artist. Graduated from the Institute of Industrial Arts. Artist and art director at Koruteollisuus Tillander / Tillander Oy 1956 – 1989. His designs include the Tähkä silver tableware set, chains and medals. The marks are on an object produced by Koruteollisuus Tillander in 1957.
MV
The Martti Viikinniemi jewellery workshop, Heinola.
nb
Nikolai Babitzin.
OLLI AUVINEN
Master Goldsmith Olli Auvinen (1933-2007). Began his career G. Buchert in 1949, moved from there to design for Alppikultaan. Also designed jewellery in the 1960s for Westerback. Moved in 1965 to the Finnish Goldsmith School as a teacher, where he continued to become the school's director. He studied at the Taideteollisessa opistossa metalli- ja kuvanveistolinjalla (Art and Design College of metal and sculpture).
OWE JOHANSSON
Owe Johansson (b. 1939), internationally known Swedish silversmith and designer. Started his career in 1965 and achieved fame at the 1968 Ungt Svenskt Silver fair. Designed jewellery and objects for Finnish producers as well. The mark is on an object stamped by Kultakeskus in 1973.
PEKKA TURTIAINEN
Used the responsibility mark PT:n in Helsinki in 1968 – 1996. The mark is on a silver ladle from 1978.
PERTTI PEURI
Pertti Peuri (b. 1943), goldsmith and jewellery artist. Designed jewellery for Sten Ky in the 1970s and 1980s. The mark is on an item made by Sten Ky in 1988. Peuri's design mark is also used in his own responsibility mark, symbol mark number 155 in the Tukes catalogue, on stamped unique jewellery and other objects.
PER ÅKE
Per-Åke Johansson (b.1945), silversmith, moved from Åland to Sweden. He studied and ran his own studio in Stockholm, moved to Maarianhamina in the 1980s and continued in his own workshop. Marks on a brooch made in Johansson's studio (PÅJ = Silversmeden P-Å) in 1995.
POUL
Poul Havgaard (1936-2011), Lapponia Jewelry designer since 1971. His jewellery is based on organic shapes. The marks in this image are Lapponia's cufflinks from 1972.
PP
Pekka Piekäinen (1945 – 2004), artist, watchmaker and silversmith. Designed silver objects, jewellery and jewellery watches for Kultakeskus, Auran Kultasepät, Tarkiainen and Platinoro. Received the State Prize for Art and Design in 1976.
P.SARPANEVA
Pentti Sarpaneva (1925-1978), designer. Designed jewellery, for example, for Kalevala Koru and Turun Hopea.
PT (or TP)
Unknown artist, Auran Kultaseppä Oy prepared the item in 1974.
REIJO SIRKEOJA, RS
Reijo Sirkeoja, silversmith. Studied at the Finnish Goldsmith School. My hopeataidetakomo Tampere in 1953-1965, which took the name of products and is characterised by the RMS mark. He has also designed of silverware for Kultakeskus.
R. RAITILA
Reijo Sakari Raitila (b.1932) is a metal artist. He studied at the Goldsmith School 1950-1952, after which he graduated from the University of Art and Design Helsinki in 1956. A year at Pirkan Kulta followed. He ran he own studio specialising in silver 1957-1971, which then became a design office. He has been a subcontractor to Pirkan Kulta and has served as a teacher of art for 40 years. He used his own name RSR and symbol mark no. 119 in his work.
SIROKORU
Jewellery artist Matti Hyvärinen (b.1937) founded Sirokoru in 1958 and specialised in cast jewellery. Hyvärinen has gained a number of jewellery awards. He has also been selected as Goldsmith of the Year in 1987. These marks are on a silver ring from 1975. Marked with Sirokoru and MJH responsibility mark.
ST
Seppo Tamminen (1944-2012), jewellery artist. His designs have been produced by his own studio as well as by Merkkikeskus Sorsa and Hopeajaloste. Alongside the ST mark he has also been using his full name. The mark is on a brooch stamped by Merkkikeskus Sorsa in 1967.
TAISTO PALONEN
Designed jewellery for Kultateollisuus in the 1970s.
TIMO MUSTAJÄRVI
Timo Mustajärvi (b. 1969), jeweller and goldsmith. Studied at the Lappeenranta Institute of Handicraft and Industrial Art and the Lahti Institute of Design. Worked for one year in London. Has his own enterprise, Jalo, in Fiskars village, and another studio on Suomenlinna, which he uses in the summer.
TW
Kultakeskus continues to produce Tapio Wirkkala (1915-1985) designs. His design mark is shown as initials at the end of the mark series.
VEIKKO
Unknown artist. This is a hand-made object that has been inspected and marked by assay office Inspecta Oy as a private client.
VH
Väinö Hamara (1907 – 1964), master goldsmith. Studied at the Central School of Industrial Arts, where he was later employed as a teacher. After working for Kultala Oy and Taito Oy he set up his own business in 1933. The mark was used for silver objects designed from the 1950s to the early 1990s.
WECKSTRÖM
The responsibility mark on jewellery from 1963 is BRW (= Björn R. Weckström). The framed mark is on a pendant made by Veikko Reinikka in 1960.